80AROUND YANGON
DELTA REGION
for deck class and $42 for cabin class (although
we’ve yet to encounter the cabin), and are avail-
able in the morning at the Inland Water Trans-
port Offi ce (Mahabandoola Rd; h10am-noon),
located in a wooden colonial-era building near the
jetty, or from 3pm onward at the jetty itself. Bus
For buses from Yangon, see p 71.
Inconveniently, the bus stations for various des-
tinations are spread throughout central Pathein.
This is confusing, but probably easier than having
to schlep all the way to the town’s bus station,
located well outside the city centre.
If you’re bound for Yangon (K6000, four
hours), head to the informal bus company of-
fi ces (Shwezedi Rd) located directly east of
Shwe Zin Yaw Restaurant. There are departures
at 3.30am, 5.30am, 6.30am and 1.30pm; arrive
early and a shuttle truck will transport you to the
station and your bus. The 6.30am departure is
the only air-con one.
Insanely uncomfortable minibuses ply the
route from Pathein to Chaung Tha Beach
(K2500, 2½ hours, 36 miles) at 7am, 11am, 1pm
and 3pm, departing from an informal bus sta-
tion (Yadayagone St) a couple of blocks north-
east of the clock tower.
To Ngwe Saung Beach (K4000, two hours, 29
miles), buses leave from yet another bus station
(Strand Rd) at 9am, 11am and 3pm. Ta xi
Share taxis for up to four people can be arranged
from your hotel in Pathein for Chaung Tha
(K50,000), Ngwe Saung (K40,000) and Yangon
(K100,000).Chaung Tha Beach
exY;='"s;km'"e ̈x
%042 / POP C2000
Chaung Tha Beach, 25 miles west of Pathein,
is a place of holiday excess for the Myanmar
middle class. There’s paddling in the water,
fl oating about on rubber rings, plodding
up and down on ponies, wasting money on
tacky souvenirs, boisterous beach football
games and happy family picnics. As with
other beaches of this type in Southeast Asia,
it’s not the most awe-inspiring piece of coast-
line you’ll ever encounter, but if you need to
squeeze some sand and sun into your visit to
Myanmar, it is the most convenient option. 1 Sights & Activities
The village market is most active from 6am
to 9am. East of the main village area is a
mangrove wetland and a canal beach with awooden jetty. It isn’t hard to persuade a fi sh-
erperson to take you up the river and around
the mangroves for a few thousand kyat. Boating Trips
A modest coral reef lies a short way off shore
with decent snorkelling possible both here
and around the headland at the beach’s
northern end. During the rainy season the
water clarity is terrible.
The best snorkelling, though, is about
a two-hour boat ride away. Boats, which
should be arranged through your hotel,
cost K50,000 per hour for six people. If you
haven’t got your own gear some of the hotels
might conjure up a tatty snorkel and mask
for your use – ask at Myanmar Travel Beach
or the Shwe Hin Tha Hotel.
The appropriately named Whitesand Is-
land, which is visible a short way off shore,
can be explored in a day trip from Chaung
Tha Beach. Boats (K3000 one way, 15 min-
utes) leave from the jetty at the south end of
the village every hour or so from 8am (last
one back leaves at 5pm). There’s good swim-
ming and snorkelling around the island, but
very little shade. Bring plenty of water and,
fi nally, don’t attempt to swim over – it’s a very
long way and around the halfway point the
Jaws theme tune gets lodged in your head! Other Activities
You can rent canoes for about K10,000 a day,
or bicycles for about K2000 a day, at hotels
and guesthouses. 4 Sleeping
Of all the beach destinations in Myanmar,
Chaung Tha off ers the most aff ordable ac-
commodation. Yet at research time, the
beach was experiencing something of a mini
boom and there will undoubtedly be even
more top-end places by the time you read
this. Those keen to avoid places with close
links to the military should avoid the Hotel
Max (see p 21 ).
All but a few hotels close down from 15
May to 15 September; those that remain
open discount room rates. Most places, in-
cluding even the most expensive resorts,
have electricity only from 1pm to 3pm and
6pm to midnight or morning.
If none of the budget places recommend-
ed here are available, there are several simi-
larly priced off -beach guesthouses south of
the bus station, along the way to the pier.
All hotels are located along Main Rd.