november2011

November2011SanDiegoMagazine.com 99

Guadalupe Valley

Less than two hours from San Diego, the Gua-

dalupe Valley is the heart of Baja’s wine coun-

try. No longer a hidden gem—a er local buzz

from San Diego and Los Angeles foodies over

the past decade, The New York Times and Food

& Wine travel writers have made visits—the

region just northeast of Ensenada still strug-

gles for a cohesive tourism message. It’s the

perfect time for San Diegans to sip and sample

wine, olive oil, and cuisine from a still-emerging

gastro-destination in our own backyard.

STAY Adobe Guadalupe is a bed-and-break-

fast-style lodge with just six guest rooms, a

rustic, communal kitchen, native gardens, and a

vineyard that produces 5,000 cases per year.

EAT & DRINK Chefs on-site cook up a four-

course meal nightly, using local produce and

whatever meat has been imported that day.

Nearby restaurant Laja is also worth trying

for a sample of local fl avors. Wine pairings are

all local as well. Also worth a try are the tast-

ing rooms at L.A. Cetto (look for their wines

popping up at regionally-focused restaurants

in San Diego) and Dona Lupe, a small winery

with a store fi lled with local olive oils, cheeses,

and other goods.

PLAY Take a horseback ride

through Adobe Guadalupe’s

vineyards, ask the innkeepers

to set up a tour of local muse-

ums and art galleries, or catch

a ride down to Ensenada for a

cold beer and taco on the beach.

Adobe Guadalupe

Villa del Palmar

✱

Loreto

Founded by Jesuit missionaries in the late

1600s, it’s one of Baja’s oldest villages.

Despite a beautiful collection of original

mission structures, the town is all about

tourism these days, with new develop-

ments, resorts, condos, and restaurants

creating a new culture of expats, divers,

fi shermen, and other heat-seeking travelers.

STAY Several resorts are diff erentiating

themselves from the “spring break” side of

Cabo. The excellent Inn at Loreto Bay is

one of them. Another is La Mision, which

has undergone an $11 million renovation;

the hacienda-style retreat boasts panoramic

views and incorporates historic structures and

mature gardens for an authentic, Old World

feel. The brand new, multimillion dollar Villa

del Palmar (same hotel group as the famous

resorts in Cabo and elsewhere) opened this

year in Loreto, as well. Turtle-shaped pools,

private fi repits on the beach, fi ne dining

restaurants, and personal chef service for VIP

suite guests take the sleepy fi shing town to a

whole new level.

EAT & DRINK Adventurous foodies

should hire one of the many boat charters

for a day of fi shing for mahi-mahi in the

Sea of Cortez, as many local restaurants in

the village will cook up your fresh catch if

you bring it in on ice. For a more sophisti-

cated meal, try Baja Peninsula at

La Mision for a classic Baja-Med

menu (local fi sh and produce

fused with Mediterranean fl avors

and preparations). La Picazon is

a bit of a drive out of town, but of-

fers a classic Baja seafood menu,

friendly family-run service and a

patio dotted with pretty palapas for shade

and ambience. Just opened this summer,

Danzante resort at the Villa del Palmar will

please carnivores looking for a good steak

and an extensive wine list.

PLAY The Sea of Cortez is the main

attraction. While kayaking, snorkeling, and

whale watching are a good way to dip your

toes in the water, sport fi shing and sailing

are the best way to experience the old-time

soul of this fi shing village. The Baja Big

Fish Company publishes The Fish Report

online with the best local updates on condi-

tions, charters, and other local fi shing news

and tips. Ask the concierge for a charter

company with local guides and fi shermen.

✱

ROBERT TRAMA