70 SanDiegoMagazine.comNovember2011
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HAWAII
GE TAWAY
the sport they exhibited their
mastery, courage, and power in
big waves, elevating their status
within their society.
When Captain Cook arrived in
the 1778, the ancient culture of
surfing peaked, and then sadly
disappeared for some 150 years as
Hawaiian society was transformed by
the influence of haoles on the islands.
The missionaries’ morality did not
condone the levity of the sport,
though thankfully, some die-hard
native watermen managed to keep it
alive. Interestingly enough, novelist
Jack London descended upon Oahu
in 1907, and greatly influenced the
re-emergence of the sport. Fellow
writer Alexander Hume Ford
introduced him to surfing and
Waikiki beach local surfer, George
Freeth. London fell in love with the
sport and wrote about both surfing
and Freeth as a great waterman.
Freeth’s notoriety and London’s
words helped spread the news about
surfing. In 1908, the Hawaiian
Outrigger Canoe Club formed to
preserve the ancient art of surfing and
outrigger canoeing and Waikiki
became an official surf capital.
Hawaiian native, swimming
champion, and surfing legend, Duke
Kahanamoku, was revered as the
ultimate waterman. He and his friends
became the “Beach Boys” of Waikiki,
and formed their own surf club, the
Hui Nalu Club, which competed with
the members of the Outrigger Club.
Duke’s fame as an Olympic gold
medalist and actor also allowed him
Surfers at Waikiki teach the world about surfing.
Waikiki Beach Waimea Bay, North Shore