and a dummy hanging
in a noose outside, the
Hangman’s Tree (305 Main
St) bar is built over the
stump of the eponymous
tree. For family-friendly
shenanigans, head 1
mile north of town via
Bedford Ave to Gold Bug
Park (%530-642-5207; http://www.
goldbugpark.org; 2635 Gold
Bug Lane; mine adult/child
$5/3, gold panning per hr $2;
h10am-4pm daily Apr-Oct,
noon-4pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar;
c), where hard-hatted
visitors can descend into
a 19th-century mine shaft,
or try gold panning.5 p235
The Drive » Back on Hwy 49
northbound, you’ll ride along
one of the most scenic stretches
of the Golden Country’s historic
route. Patched with shade
from oak and pine trees, Hwy
49 drifts beside Sierra Nevada
foothills for the next 9 miles to
Coloma.8 Coloma
At pastoral, low-key
Marshall Gold Discovery
State Historic Park
(%530-622-3470; http://www.parks.
ca.gov, http://www.marshallgold.
org; 310 Back St; per car $8;
h8am-5pm, to 7pm late
May-early Sep, museum
10am-3pm Nov-Mar, to 4pm
Apr-Oct; c#), a simple
dirt path leads to the
place along the banksTRIP HIGHLIGHTof the American River
where James Marshall
made his famous
discovery of gold flecks
below Sutter’s Mill on
January 24, 1848. Today,
several reconstructed
and restored historical
buildings are all within a
short stroll along grassy
trails that pass mining
artifacts, a blacksmith’s
shop, pioneer emigrant
houses and a historical
museum. Panning for
gold is always popular
at Bekeart’s Gun Shop
(329 Hwy 49; per person $7;
h10am-3pm Tue-Sun Apr-
Oct). Opposite the pioneer
cemetery, you can walk
or drive up California’s
shortest state highway,
Hwy 153, to where
the James Marshall
Monument marks
Marshall’s final resting
place. Ironically, he died
bankrupt, penniless and
a ward of the state.The Drive » Rolling
northbound, Hwy 49 unfolds
more of the region’s historical
beauty over the next 15 miles.
In Auburn, drive across I-80
and stay on Hwy 49 north
for another 22 miles, gaining
elevation while heading toward
Grass Valley. Exit onto Empire St,
turning right to follow the signs
for Empire Mine State Historic
Park’s visitor center.9 Around
Nevada City
You’ve hit the biggest
bonanza of the mother
lode: Empire Mine State
Historic Park (%530-273-8522; http://www.empiremine.com,
http://www.parks.ca.gov; 10791 E
Empire St, Grass Valley; adult/
child $7/3, guided cottage
tour $2; h10am-5pm; c),
where California’s richest
hard-rock mine produced
5.8 million ounces of gold
between 1850 and 1956.
The mine yard is littered
with the massive mining
equipment and buildings
constructed from waste
rock.
Backtrack west, then
follow the Golden Chain
Hwy (Hwy 49) four more
miles north to Nevada
City. On the town’s quaint
main drag, hilly Broad
St, the National Hotel (211
Broad St) purports to be
the oldest continuously
operating hotel west of the
Rockies. Mosey around
the block to Historic
Firehouse No 1 Museum
(www.nevadacountyhistory.
org; 214 Main St; admission free;
h1-4pm Fri-Sun May-Oct),
where Native American
artifacts join displays
about Chinese laborers
and creepy Donner Party
relics.
Last, cool off with a
dip at South Yuba River
State Park (%530-432-
2546; http://www.parks.ca.gov; 17660
Pleasant Valley Rd, Penn Valley;
admission free; hsunrise-
sunset; c#), with hiking
trails and swimming
holes near the USA’s
longest covered wooden
bridge. It’s a 30-minute
drive northwest of
Nevada City or Grass
Valley.54 p235
TRIP HIGHLIGHTCENTRAL.CALIFORNIA21
(^) HIGHWAY 49 THROUGH GOLD COUNTRY