for making brambly
zinfandels and spicy
syrahs, which you
can sample at a dozen
wineries all crowded
together on a four-block
stretch downtown. It’s
best to arrive early if
you’re visiting on the
weekend. Start at Tanner
(www.tannervineyards.com;
202 Main St; h1-5pm Mon
& Thu-Fri, noon-5:30pm Sat,
noon-5pm Sun), whose
family was the first
to plant grapes and
pay an alcohol tax in
Calaveras County in the
1860s. Don’t miss the
‘Train Wreck’ red blend
at Newsome Harlowe
(www.nhvino.com; 403 Main
St; hnoon-5pm Mon-Thu,
11am-5:30pm Fri-Sun) or
the ‘%£&@’ (rhymes
with ‘duck’) Rhône red
blend at tongue-in-
cheek Twisted Oak (www.
twistedoak.com; 363 Main St;
h11:30am-5:30pm Sun-Fri,
10:30am-5:30pm Sat).
54 p243
The Drive » Hwy 4 ascends
through the workaday small
town of Arnold, which has a
few cafes and motels strung
along the roadside 12 miles
east of Murphys. After motoring
another 2.5 miles uphill, turn
right into Calaveras Big Trees
State Park.
2 Calaveras Big
Trees State Park
Truthfully named
Calaveras Big Trees
State Park (%209-795-
2334; http://www.parks.ca.gov; entry
per car $8; hsunrise-sunset;
c) is home to giant
sequoias. The most
massive trees on earth,
they grow only in the
western Sierra Nevada
range. Reaching over
300ft tall and with trunk
diameters over 55ft,
these leftovers from the
Mesozoic era are thought
to weigh upwards of
3000 tons, or more than
20 blue whales. Close to
the park entrance, the
North Grove Big Trees
Trail is a 1.5-mile self-
guided loop, where the
air is scented with fresh
pine, fir and incense
cedar. To escape some
of the crowds, drive 8.5
miles along the curving
park road to the start
of the South Grove
Trail. This 3.5-mile loop
ascends to a peaceful
grove that protects 10
times as many giant
sequoias; a 1.5-mile
round-trip spur trail
leads to the Agassiz Tree,
the big daddy of them all.
Afterward, cool off with
a summertime dip in
Beaver Creek below the
trail’s footbridge or in the
Stanislaus River along
the main park road.
4 p243
The Drive » Back at Hwy
4, turn right and drive uphill
past Dorrington, a 19th-
century stagecoach stop and
toll-road station, stopping at
Hell’s Kitchen Vista Point for
panoramas of the glaciated
volcanic landscape. About 22
miles northeast of the state park
lies Bear Valley.
3 Bear Valley
It’s all about outdoor
family fun here. Sniff
out anything from rock
climbing to mountain
biking and hiking all
within a short distance
of Bear Valley Village,
which has a gas station,
shops and casual
restaurants. In winter,
Bear Valley Mountain
(%209-753-2301; http://www.
bearvalley.com; lift ticket
adult/child $67/49; husually
Dec-Mar) ski area will get
your brain buzzing with
2000ft of vertical rise
and 12 lifts. The resort’s
somewhat off-the-beaten-
track location gives it
a beginner-friendly,
locals-only feel. On
your left as you pull
TRIP HIGHLIGHT
i
Lake Tahoe
Loop
From Hope Valley, it’s a
20-mile drive northwest
on Hwy 89 past stream-
fed meadows to South
Lake Tahoe’s beaches
and ski resorts.
l
Highway
49 Through
Gold Country
From Murphys, mosey
13 miles along Hwy 4
and Parrots Ferry Rd to
old-time Columbia State
Historic Park.
LINK
YOUR
TRIP
CENTRAL.CALIFORNIA.
22
.EBBETTS PASS SCENIC BYWAY