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1 San Diego
On July 1, 1769, a forlorn
lot of about 100 Spanish
soldiers and missionaries
straggled ashore at San
Diego Bay. After sailing
for weeks up the coast
from Baja California,
many were sick and
over half had died. It
was an inauspicious
beginning for Mission
Basilica San Diego de
Alcalá (%619-281-8449;
http://www.missionsandiego.com;
10818 San Diego Mission
Rd; suggested donation $3;
h9am-4:45pm), the oldest
in California’s chain of
missions.
West atop Presidio
Hill, the Serra Museum
(%619-297-3258; http://www.
sandiegohistory.org; 2727
Presidio Dr; adult/child
$6/3; h10am-4pm or 5pm
Sat & Sun, call for weekday
hr; (^) c) recounts Native
American struggles
with mission life. Where
the colonists’ original
military fort and church
once stood, this 1920s
Spanish Revival building
echoes early mission
architecture.
Nearby, you can visit
Old Town San Diego
State Historic Park
(%619-220-5422; http://www.
parks.ca.gov; admission free;
hvisitor center & museums
10am-4pm, to 5pm May-Sep)
preserves buildings from
the Spanish, Mexican and
early American periods,
with an old-fashioned
plaza surrounded by
shops and cafes.
For our walking tour,
see p292.
54 p301
The Drive » El Camino Real,
which is marked throughout
California by free-standing
bronze mission bells erected in
the 1920s, follows I-5 north from
San Diego. After more than 60
miles, exit onto Hwy 74 (Ortega
Hwy), turn left and drive west to
Mission San Juan Capistrano.
Mission Trail
It.took.over.50.years.for.a.chain.of. 21 .missions.to.
be.established.along.El.Camino.Real.(‘the.Royal.
Rd’),.first.forged.by.Spanish.conquistador.Gaspar.
de.Portolá.and.Franciscan.priest.Junípero.Serra.
in.the.late.18th.century..Each.mission.was.just.a.
day’s.ride.on.horseback.away.from.the.next,.but.
today.you.can.drive.the.entire.route.in.less.than.a.
week.
28