California's Best Trips 2 - Full PDF eBook

edibles begins by fighting

your way through the

spandex-clad crowd of

weekend cyclist to grab a

crusty loaf of fire-baked

Brickmaiden Bread

at the Bovine Bakery

(11315 Hwy 1; h6:30am-

5pm Mon-Thu, 7am-5pm

Sat & Sun). Next, step

down the block to the

restored barn that houses

Tomales Bay Foods &

Cowgirl Creamery (www.

cowgirlcreamery.com; 80 4th

St; h10am-6pm Wed-Sun;

vc), one of the nation’s

most sought-after cheese

makers. In spring the

must-buy is their St Pat’s,

a smooth, mellow round

wrapped in nettle leaves;

the Mt Tam (available

year-round) is pretty

damn good too. There is

also a gourmet deli and

tour on Friday mornings.

54 p76

The Drive » Follow signs

for the Point Reyes National

Seashore, which is south on

Hwy 1, just on the other side of

Tomales Bay.

4 Point Reyes

National Seashore

For the perfect picnic

spot, Waters says to look

just down the coast, to

the Point Reyes National

Seashore (www.nps.gov/

pore; Bear Valley Rd; h9am-

5pm Mon-Fri, from 8am Sat &

Sun). ‘Go up there in the

headlands and find a

little spot on the way out

by Bolinas and Inverness

and along the Point

Reyes National Seashore,’

she says. ‘I think that

is one of the greatest

park areas I’ve ever

been in.’ The windswept

peninsula is rough-hewn

beauty that lures marine

mammals and migratory

birds. The 110 sq miles of

pristine ocean beaches

also offer excellent

hiking and camping

opportunities. For an

awe-inspiring view,

follow the Earthquake

Trail from the park

headquarters at Bear

Valley.

4 p76

The Drive » Leaving the park,

you’ll follow the eucalyptus-

lined curves of Hwy 1 south

toward Stinson Beach and past

one stunning Pacific view after

the next. If you don’t pause for

some beach combing, you’ll be

back across the Golden Gate

Bridge in about an hour and

a half. From the bridge, follow

Hwy 101 through the city to

Broadway, then go right to the

waterfront.

5 Ferry Building

Marketplace

From the center of the

Golden Gate Bridge,

it’s possible to view

the clock tower of the

city’s Ferry Building

Marketplace which hosts

a broad selection of

gourmet organics and is

a one-stop destination

for many of Waters’

recommendations. ‘The

day to go, of course, is

Saturday,’ she says. That’s

when the landmark is

encircled by some 80

family farmers and 40

food artisans. From dry-

farmed tomatoes

TRIP HIGHLIGHT TRIP HIGHLIGHT

Start: 3 Point Reyes Station

Only 10 minutes north of Point Reyes Station, you’ll

find the salty turnout for the Hog Island Oyster

Company (%415-663-9218; http://www.hogislandoysters.com;

20215 Hwy 1, Marshall; 12 oysters $13-$16, picnic area fee $8;

h9am-5pm Mon-Sun). There’s hardly much to see –

just a few picnic tables, some barbeque grills and a

small window selling their famously silky oysters and

a few other provisions. And while they sell oysters to

go (by the pound), for Waters, ‘There’s nothing better

than eating them right there on the beach.’ For a fee

you can arrange for a table and borrow shucking

tools and take a lesson on how to crack open and grill

the oysters. A picnic at the farm is an unforgettable

lunch – and popular, so make reservations. Take the

Hwy 1 north from Point Reyes Station and look for

the sign for Hog Island Oyster Company, on the bay.

HOG ISLAND

OYSTER COMPANY

DETOUR:

NORTHERN.CALIFORNIA

4

(^) ALICE WATERS’ CULINARY TOUR