Lonely Planet

October 2017 Lonely Planet Traveller 103``````BEST VIEWIt doesn’t matter how manytimes you’ve seen images ofthe Tiger’s Nest monastery(above), the view, theatmosphere, the sounds youexperience there are magic.``````MOST INTERESTINGTHING I LEARNTThe claim that Bhutan isthe ‘happiest nation onEarth’ is a myth. It seemedno more or less happy thanany of the other of the countriesin the region I’ve visited.``````FAVOURITE MOMENTPlaying football in theafternoon sunshinewith a group ofyoung monksin theirmonasterygroundsoutsidethe capitalThimphu.``````MOST ENJOYABLE MEALThe Bhutanese love chilliesand you’ll find them on themenu at almost everymeal. I enjoyed theema datshi- hot chilliescooked in acheese sauce.THING IWISH I’DKNOWNBEFORE I WENTBhutan has almostzero nightlife. I should’vedownloaded more boxsetsonto my laptop.``````WILDEST ANIMALENCOUNTERPacks of streetdogs. Take goodsilicon ear plugsas they can keepyou awake allnight with theirincessant barking.``````BIGGEST SURPRISEHow good the local beer(Red Panda) tastes.``````MOST CURIOUSCUSTOMBhutan’s phallocentricity.Elaborate paintings ofpenises on Bhutanesehomes are said to driveaway the evil eye andmalicious gossip. Farmers alsobury wooden phalluses in theirfields to encourage a good crop.``````BEST WAY TO MAKE FRIENDSBhutan hasa culture ofgift-giving.Bring smalltins ofBritish-brandedsweets fromhome asice-breakers orthank yous.``````ADVICEFOR BUDDINGPHOTOGRAPHERSBhutan’s monasteries might beridiculously photogenic butshow respect to these sacredplaces and the people who resideand worship there. Not causingoffence is far more importantthan any photograph you mightwant to take. Visitors who wantphotos of the Tiger’s Nest withclear blue skies head there earlyin the morning. The afternoons``````often cloud overso you mightnot get theperfectphoto, butthis is thetime to haveBhutan’smost famousmonasteryalmost to yourself.``````TOP TIPIf you’re flying into Bhutan fromKathmandu, be sure to get awindow seat on the left of theplane. On a clear day you’ll bespoilt with staggering views ofthe Himalayas, including MountEverest, for almost the entirejourney. It’s quite possibly themost beautiful flight in the world.THE PHOTOGRAPHER’S STORYMAKE IT HAPPENO Reaching Bhutan involves first flying to Bangkok, Delhi, Kathmandu,Kolkata or Singapore (London to Delhi from £370; airindia.in), and thenflying on to Paro with national airline Druk Air or private carrier BhutanAirlines (Delhi to Paro from £270; drukair.com.bt).``````OAll visitors must book via a licensed local or foreign tour operator inorder to be approved for a visa, which costs £30 and must be arrangedbefore arrival, via the operator. For more details, see tourism.gov.bt.Wild Frontiers’ eight-day Highlights of Bhutan trip includes visits to theformer capital Punakha, plus Paro and Thimphu, and Paro Valley’s Tiger’sNest Monastery (from £2,095 excl flights; wildfrontierstravel.com).``````OBe aware that there is a minimum daily tariff for all visitors toBhutan, which covers three-star accommodation, meals, transport(including internal flights), services of licensed guides and porters, anda sustainable development fee. The tariff for a visitor travelling in agroup of three or more is £150 per night in low season (January,February, June–August and December), and £190 at other times.``````OThe spring and autumn high seasons offer ideal weather, withHimalayan views at their best in October; prices are cheaper in the lowseason, though winter can be cold and summer brings monsoons. Manyvisitors plan their dates around Bhutan’s festivals, with the biggest inFebruary and September – see tourism.gov.bt for more details.Simon Urwin’sBhutanPHOTOGRAPHS: SIMON URWIN, ECONOMIC IMAGES/ALAMY, JOFF LEE/GETTY, STUDIOMODE/ALAMYMOSTUSEFUL PHRASE‘Chogi pa citapge ma?’‘Can I take yourphoto?’