Lonely Planet

TOP PICKSA cobbled streetleading down fromMarvão’s castleCOMPILED BY RORY GOULDING, WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM REGIS ST LOUIS. PHOTOGRAPHS: MICHAEL HOWARD/4CORNERS, MATT MUNROOctober 2017 Lonely Planet Traveller 121``````A sun-baked stretch of southern Portugalbetween busy Lisbon and the beaches of theAlgarve, the Alentejo is an ideal match fora slower-paced style of tourism. Read on fortop sights and activities that highlight theregion’s nature and traditions, plus hotelsand restaurants for all budgets.``````Alentejo wines, particularly the reds, are richand fruity. But tasting them is much more funthan reading about them, so drop in on some wineries.The Rota dos Vinhos do Alentejo (Wine Route ofthe Alentejo) splits the region into three areas – theSerra de São Mamede (dark reds, full-bodied, redfruit hints); Historic (smooth reds, fruity whites)around Évora, Estremoz, Borba and Monsaraz; and the Rio Guadiana(scented whites, spicy reds). Some wineries also have rooms. You’ll seebrown signs all over the Alentejo announcing that you are on the winetrail, and you can pick up the booklet that lists wineries and theirdetails at any local tourist office. Otherwise visit the helpful Rota dosVinhos do Alentejo headquarters in Évora (vinhosdoalentejo.pt).Rural lifein AlentejoS I G H T SArraiolos(cm-arraiolos.pt)The small town of Arraiolos isfamed for its exquisite tapetes –handwoven carpets made heresince the 12th century, whichVKRZ3HUVLDQLQÁXHQFH2QDVWUROOyou may see locals stitching inIURQWRIWKHLUKRPHV3DWWHUQVDUHEDVHGRQDEVWUDFWPRWLIVÁRZHUVELUGVRUDQLPDOV7KHWRZQLWVHOIcomprises traditional white-washed and blue-trimmed housesZLWKWHUUDFRWWDURRIV``````Castelo de MarvãoMarvão’s formidable castle, builtinto the rock at the western end ofthe village, dates from the late13th century, but most of whatyou see today is from the 17thFHQWXU\7KHYLHZVIURPWKH``````battlements are staggering, andWKHVLWHKDVDKXJHYDXOWHGFLVWHUQ``````Cromeleque dosAlmendresSet in a beautiful landscape ofolive and cork trees, this hugeoval of standing stones is theIberian Peninsula’s most impor-WDQWPHJDOLWKLFJURXS7KHrounded granite stones spreaddown a rough slope nine milesZHVWRIeYRUD5HDFKWKHVLWHE\Ddirt road signposted from Nossa6HQKRUDGH*XDGDOXSHYLOODJH``````Parque Natural doVale do Guadiana(natural.pt)The hills, plains and valleys aroundSerpa and Mértola towns shelterWKH5LR*XDGLDQDRQHRI3RUWX-JDO·VODUJHVWULYHUV$PRQJWKH``````dining at the restaurant, andUHFRPPHQGHGIRUZLQHWRXUV``````E AT I N GCafé-Restaurante AlentejoPORTUGUESE £(00 351 286 655 133; Rua Grande3, Moreanes)This attractive place in the Valedo Guadiana is almost a museumWKDQNVWRLWVDQWLTXHH[KLELWV,Wserves great-value, hearty trueAlentejan cuisine, with standoutdishes like javali (boar), veado(venison) and migas com entre-FRVWRDEUHDGGLVKZLWKULEV``````Sabores de MonsarazPORTUGUESE ££(saboresdemonsaraz.com; Largode S Bartolomeu, Monsaraz)Perched high above the plains,with views reaching as far asSpain, this stone-built tavern is aUXVWLFIDPLO\IULHQGO\VSRW*RRGhonest Alentejano homecookingstars on the menu, with dishessuch as tender black pork andmigas com bacalhau e coentrosFRGZLWKEUHDGDQGFRULDQGHUDon’t pass up dessert – the richsericaia (an egg custard tart) withVXJDUHGSOXPVLVPDJQLÀFHQW``````Tasca do CelsoPORTUGUESE £££(tascadocelso.com; Rua dosAviadores, Vila Nova deMilfontes)Locals and travellers rave aboutthe cuisine produced in the kitch-en of this charming, ‘upmarketUXVWLF·EOXHDQGZKLWHEXLOGLQJYou’re safe trying anything here,though the seafood is outstandingDQGZHOOSULFHG*UHDWVHUYLFHRSHQÀUHVDQGDQDSSHDOLQJEDUDUHDWRR%RRNDKHDGIRUGLQQHULocal knowledgeSDUN·VÁRUDDQGIDXQDDUHUDUHRUendangered species, including theblack stork, lesser kestrel (mostlikely around Castro Verde and atConvento do São Francisco),%RQHOOL·VHDJOHUR\DORZOJUH\NLWHDQGKRUQHGYLSHU7KHUHDUHDOVRSUHKLVWRULFUHPDLQV$VNLQ0pU-WRODIRUGHWDLOVRIZDONLQJWUDLOV``````AC T I V I T I E SBeira Rio Náutica £(beirario.pt; Rua Dr Afonso Costa108, Mértola)5HQWND\DNVIRUWULSVGRZQWKH5LR*XDGLDQDDWWKLVRXWÀWUXQE\WKH%HLUD5LRJXHVWKRXVH,WDOVRRՖHUVERDWWRXUVDQGELF\FOHKLUH``````Caballos Marvão ££(caballosmarvao.com)For equestrian adventures, getin touch with this friendly,SURIHVVLRQDOO\UXQRXWÀWZKLFKRՖHUVDUDQJHRIRXWLQJV<RXFDQhead out on a one-hour ridethrough typical Alentejan scen-ery, explore the little-visitedODQGVFDSHVDORQJWKH5LR6HYHUor ride along old smuggler routespast vulture colonies near the6SDQLVKERUGHU7KHVWDEOHVDUHlocated about 3 miles northeastRI0DUYmR&DOOIRUGLUHFWLRQV``````Herdade do Esporão ££(esporao.com)There are many wineries around5HJXHQJRVGH0RQVDUD]LQFOXG-ing the acclaimed Herdade do(VSRUmRPLOHVVRXWKRIWRZQUnder the direction of David%DYHUVWRFNLWSURGXFHVDZLGHvariety of wines for the domesticDQGRYHUVHDVPDUNHWV7KHUHDUHtours through the wine cellars,DPRQJWKHODUJHVWLQ3RUWXJDO5HVHUYDWLRQVDUHHVVHQWLDOIRU