/y
again.
Happy Returns
by camilleBirthdays have always been a big deal in my family. Mom would cook ex-
actly what we wanted for dinner and bake any kind of cake for Lily and me
on our special days. Our only limit was the one- year, one- person rule: each
year I could invite as many people to my party as the age I was turning. So,
three kids at my three- year- old party, ten at my tenth. As you can probably
guess, things got increasingly wild. At one point I remember asking,
“Mama, when I turn thirty can I really have thirty people at my party?” I
was shocked when she said, “Sure, absolutely.” Wow, I thought, excited al-
ready at the thought of that huge celebration. Now I just think it’s funny
that I assumed I’d still be living with my parents on my thirtieth birthday.
Last spring when my mom turned fifty she broke her own rule, big- time.
None of us minded. What could be better than a long weekend of live music,
good food, and friends and family from all over? We spent weeks setting up
for 150 guests and trying to come up with a perfect Plan B (which we never
really did) if it rained. I was inspired to see so many people in the fifty- plus
age group up and dancing well past midnight, grandparents included. I
hope I’ll still be dancing—and breaking my own rules—when I’m that age.
Two of our friend Kay’s best recipes from that party are good ways to
feature the early spring vegetables, and the only fruits you’re likely to find
in May: strawberries and rhubarb.
ASIAN VEGETABLE ROLLS
2 oz. thin rice noodles
Drop noodles into boiling water, remove from heat, and let stand for
8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Drain, rinse with cold water, and drain