Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life

(Tina Sui) #1
growing trust 123

care, is a commitment to more local food economies. It may not be possi-
ble to prevent the corruption of codified organic standards when they are
so broadly applied. A process as complex as sustainable agriculture can’t
be fully mandated or controlled; the government might as well try to legis-
late happy marriage. Corporate growers, if their only motive is profi t, will
find ways to follow the letter of organic regulations while violating their
spirit.
But “locally grown” is a denomination whose meaning is incorruptible.
Sparing the transportation fuel, packaging, and unhealthy additives is a
compelling part of the story, but the plot goes well beyond that. Local
food is a handshake deal in a community gathering place. It involves farm-
ers with first names, who show up week after week. It means an open-
door policy on the fields, where neighborhood buyers are welcome to
come have a look, and pick their food from the vine. Local is farmers
growing trust.

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