The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

  • Finely chop dry ingredients like nuts and bread crumbs.
    In order to do this, a processor must have an easy-to-use
    pulsing action and a motor that stops and starts on a turn.

  • Roughly puree vegetables for things like marinades, dips,
    and rustic soups (for full-on smoothness, use a regular
    blender). Bowl shape, power, and blade design all affect
    how well a processor can accomplish this. It should also
    not leak.

  • Grind meat. Short of a dedicated meat grinder or an
    attachment for a stand mixer, the food processor is the
    best way to grind fresh meat. Meat can be tough to chop,
    so a very sharp blade and powerful motor are necessary.

  • Easily form emulsions when making sauces like
    mayonnaise or a light vinaigrette. Bowl design can affect
    the way the blade makes contact with liquids.

  • Knead bread dough quickly and efficiently. This is the
    most-heavy-duty kitchen task of all, and the processor’s
    effectiveness relies mostly on the power of the motor.


I also like to have at least an 11- to 12-cup-capacity
processor, which makes grinding meat and making dough
much easier. Some models come with a mini-prep bowl that
can be inserted into the main bowl for small tasks. These are
cute but essentially useless. Whatever the tiny bowl can do,
I can do with a knife. That may take slightly longer, but if
you consider the time it takes to wash the blade, bowl insert,
and lid, it’s no contest.
There’s also no use for a processor that’s going to get
gummed up or jammed every time it hits a hard nut or sticky
dough. Particularly prone to failure are models with a side-

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