store-bought ground beef is a crap shoot. You’re
never quite sure when it was ground, what part of
the cow it came from, or even how many different
cows are in the package. Not to mention baddies like
E. coli, rough handling, and tight shrink-wrap
packaging that can lead to leaden patties.
Freshly ground beef has a looseness, juiciness,
and flavor that will make every store-bought ground
beef burger you’ve ever eaten want to hang its head
in shame. Grinding it yourself also allows you to
select exactly which cuts go into your patties, so you
can fine-tune your burgers to your personal taste. If
you’ve never done it, the task may seem daunting at
first, but it’s really not that difficult (see here for tips
on grinding meat).
If you do decide to go with store-ground beef,
look for ground chuck that’s at least 20-percent fat
(it’ll be labeled 80/20, 80% lean, 20% fat). If
possible, ask the butcher to coarsely grind a fresh
batch for you.
- Don’t futz around with the meat.
Despite outward appearances, ground meat is not
inert. From the moment you lay your hands on it, it
is changing dynamically, reacting to every knead,
every sprinkle of salt, and every change in
temperature. Working the meat unduly will cause
proteins to cross-link with each other like tiny strips
of Velcro, making your finished burgers denser and
tighter with every manhandling of the grind.