The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

smaller and smaller, the center bulges farther and farther
out. Why?
It’s all got to do with the amount of rare meat left in the
center of the burger. Since a burger cooks from its edges as
well as its flat faces, the sides of the burger tend to cook
much faster than the middle—so a large amount of
uncontracted rare meat remains in the center. At the same
time, the edges contract not just in terms of thickness, but
also circumferentially. This tightening action is a lot like a
belt being cinched around a fat waist that has nowhere to go
but up and over—the center of the patty is squeezed out.
The simple solution? Just compensate for the bulging and
shrinking before you start cooking the patties by making the
patties slightly wider than your buns and using your
fingertips to create a slight depression in the center of each
patty. The burgers will end up flat, and you and your guests
won’t be forced to squish them into place as you eat, losing
valuable juices.

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