The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

down birds. Salting the meat is nearly as effective at
preventing moisture loss, and the flavor gains are
noticeable. Want to know the truth? Even advanced salting
is not a necessary first step. I see it more as a safeguard
against overcooking. It provides a little buffer in case you
accidentally let that bird sit in the oven for an extra 15
minutes. As long as you are very careful about monitoring
your bird, there’s no reason to salt it in advance.
That said, it doesn’t hurt to take precautions and let
deliciousness, merriment, and family bonding ensue. You
may not all be able to agree on whether the cranberries
belong in the stuffing or on the side, but at least you can all
agree that this is one darn tasty bird.


HOW TO DRY-BRINE A BIRD


Salting poultry under its skin and letting it stand


for a   period  of  24  to  48  hours   in  the refrigerator    has
much the same effect as brining. At first the salt
draws liquid out of the meat (and this time it really is
through osmosis), but then it dissolves in this
extracted liquid, forming a concentrated bird-juice
brine right on the surface of the bird that then goes
to work at dissolving muscle fibers the same way as
a regular brine. Eventually, as the muscle fibers get
more and more relaxed, the liquid is reabsorbed.
Over the course of a night or two, the salty solution
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