The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

hand strainer is what you need. I keep one hanging on a
hook alongside my pots and pans for easy access. Inferior
models consist of just a round mesh basket attached to a
handle, but the 8-inch Stainless Steel Strainer from OXO
($24.95) also has a loop of metal sticking on the opposite
side of the basket. This allows you to set the strainer over a
bowl for no-handed operation. It may seem a little pricey for
a simple strainer, but its heavy-duty construction means it
will last and last.



  1. Chopsticks
    I admit it: this one is a little controversial. Either you grew
    up using chopsticks and wouldn’t be caught dead near a pot
    of simmering water or a wokful of hot oil without them or
    you didn’t—and, if so, you will probably wonder, “Do I
    really need them?”
    But precise tips and a gentle touch will treat small,
    delicate pieces of fried or grilled food (say, a tempura of
    squash blossoms or slender stalks of asparagus on the grill)
    far more gently than a relatively clumsy pair of tongs, which
    are better suited to large items like fried chicken or a rack of
    ribs. I use chopsticks for picking up bits of food from a stir-
    fry in progress to taste for doneness. They are also ideal for
    picking out a few slippery noodles from a pot of boiling
    water to make sure that they are perfectly al dente before
    draining.
    While regular chopsticks will do in many circumstances,
    high-heat applications require extra-long sticks made
    specifically for cooking. If you are lucky enough to have an
    East Asian kitchen supply store nearby, you can pick these

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