BONES
Q: I’m confused by all of the butchering options I have
when buying a lamb leg. What should I be looking for?
Bone-in leg of lamb comes in two forms: shank end and
sirloin end (occasionally you’ll find a massive one for sale,
with both the shank and sirloin). Shank-end legs start at just
above the lamb’s ankle and go to midway up the calf bone,
while sirloin-end legs start at the hip and stop at around the
knee.
I prefer the sirloin end because the meat is fattier and
more tender, and the cut is more evenly shaped, making it
easier to cook. On the other hand, the shank end tends to
have slightly more flavorful meat. And its tapering shape is
actually desirable for cooks who like being able to offer
both medium-rare meat from the thick upper part and well-
done meat from the thin lower part.
There are advantages to buying a bone-in lamb leg. It’s
generally cheaper per pound, even accounting for the
weight of the bone. The bone can act as an insulator,
making the whole thing cook more slowly and giving you a
certain leeway in terms of hitting that medium-rare sweet
spot. Contrary to what some believe, the bone does not
actually add much flavor to the meat, though the meat
directly around it will be a tad bit more tender, due to the
fact that it will be less cooked.
But boned lamb leg also offers advantages. First of all, it’s
lighter, making the arduous task of lifting it in and out of the
oven much easier on the back. It’s also easier to calculate
how much you need to feed your party. Finally—and this is