The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

at most half a degree or so—nowhere near enough to
make a difference, particularly because, as we now know,
you don’t even have to use boiling water. But salt is
necessary for another reason: it makes the pasta taste
good.


SHOULD I ADD OIL TO MY


PASTA WATER?


Some cookbooks advise you to add a glug or two


of  oil to  the pasta   water   as  the pasta   cooks,  claiming
that it’ll keep the pieces separated. Unfortunately,
this is not true—how could it be when the oil just
floats on top? Try it side by side: no matter how
much oil you have your pasta behaves exactly the
same way underneath.
What the oil on the surface does do is prevent the
pasta water from boiling over. As the pasta cooks,
more and more starch gets released into the pot,
increasing the water’s viscosity and allowing it to
form ever more stable bubbles. Eventually these
bubbles become so stable that they are able to push
each other up, like a raft. The raft rises above the
top of the water, and over it goes. Oil can help break
the surface tension of the water, preventing these
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