The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1
The alcohol molecule    bears   some    resemblance
to a sugar molecule, and indeed it has a
slightly sweet taste. At high concentrations,
those typical of distilled spirits and even some
strong wines, alcohol is irritating and produces
a pungent, “hot” sensation in the mouth, as
well as in the nose. Its chemical compatibility
with other aroma compounds means that
concentrated alcohol tends to bind aromas in
foods and drinks and inhibit their release into
the air.

Huh. I stopped reading when I got to that part
and started scratching my head, because I know
from past experience that adding alcohol to stews
will increase their aroma. I tested it out in my Best
Short-Rib Chili recipe (here). What’s he on about,
inhibiting aromas? But he quickly clears it all up:


But  at  very    low     concentrations,     around  1
percent or less, alcohol actually enhances the
release of fruity esters and other aroma
molecules into the air.

Aha! Now it made sense: concentration is an
important factor when it comes to its effectiveness as
a flavor enhancer. That jibes with my past
experience. Adding a bit of alcohol at the end of
cooking is a good idea for stews and chilis, but too
much, and the booziness can become overpowering,

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