EGGPLANT VARIETIES

I hated eggplant up until my early twenties. I think

it’s because I never had it cooked well. Unless
treated right, eggplant is mushy, greasy, and
insipid.‡ But when done right, it’s meaty and
substantial, with a subtle spicy bitterness and an
unparalleled ability to absorb and complement other
flavors. It also happens to be dirt cheap.
The best time of year to get it fresh is at the end
of the summer, but unlike, say, inedibly bland winter
tomatoes, even winter eggplants are perfectly
serviceable. I cook with them pretty much year-
round.
Eggplants come in a variety of shapes and sizes.
Whatever variety you use, look for unblemished,
smooth, firm skin and a hefty weight. When
eggplants get too large, they become less dense, less
flavorful, and more difficult to cook.
The most common varieties are:

• Globe: Large, deep purple, and relatively
  spongy, this is the most common variety and a
  great all-purpose choice. Excellent for dishes
  like eggplant Parmesan, where substantial