The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

memory, and a powerful one.
It’s the texture that does it for me. No other mac ’n’
cheese I’ve had has been quite so velvety smooth as the
Kraft original. That said, in absolute terms, it does leave a
bit to be desired in the flavor department. The ultimate goal?
A cheese sauce with the creamy, gooey, oozy consistency
of the blue box version but all the complex flavor of real
cheese.


Gimme a Break!


Cheese melts, right? So why not just throw some cheddar
cheese into a pot with the pasta and heat it until it’s at
perfect sauce consistency? Anyone who’s tried it can tell
you: the cheese breaks, greasy slicks forming over a watery
layer, with clumps of tough, rubbery cheese strands stuck
together. It’s not a pretty picture.
In order to understand why that happens, let’s take a
closer look at exactly what cheese is made of:

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