The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

  • Water is present to varying degrees. Young cheeses like
    Jack, young cheddars, and mozzarella have a relatively
    high water content—up to 80 percent. The longer a cheese
    is aged, the more moisture it loses, and the harder it
    becomes. Famous hard cheeses, like Parmigiano-Reggiano
    and Pecorino Romano, may contain as little as 30 percent
    water after several years of aging.

  • Milk fat in solid cheese is dispersed in the form of
    microscopic globules kept suspended in a tight matrix of
    protein micelles (more on those in a second). Under
    around 90°F, this fat is solid. Because of this, and because
    of their suspension, these tiny globules don’t come into
    contact with each other to form larger globules: cheeses
    stay creamy or crumbly, instead of greasy.

  • Protein micelles are spherical bundles of milk proteins.
    Individual milk proteins (the main ones are four similar
    molecules called caseins) resemble little tadpoles with
    hydrophobic (water-avoiding) heads, and hydrophillic
    (water-seeking) tails. These proteins come together
    headfirst in bundles of several thousand, protecting their
    hydrophobic heads and exposing their hydrophillic tails to
    their watery surroundings. These micelles link together
    into long chains, forming a matrix that gives the cheese its
    structure.

  • Salt and other flavorings make up the rest of the cheese.
    Salt can have a profound effect on the texture—saltier
    cheeses have had more moisture drawn out of the curd
    before being pressed, so they tend to be drier and firmer.
    Other flavorful compounds present in cheese are mostly
    intentional by-products of bacteria and aging.

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