{ PICKING SALAD

GREENS }

I categorize salad greens into four different basic groups:
crisp, peppery, mild, and bitter. In most cases, any member
of one of these groups can be substituted for another
member. So, for example, you can make a Caesar salad with
iceberg lettuce without significantly altering the flavor
profile, but you can’t make it with hot and peppery arugula
or bitter radicchio. Here are the most common lettuce
varieties you’ll find in these categories.

Crisp Lettuces
Best served with creamy mayonnaise or dairy-based
dressings.

• Iceberg got a bad rap in the 1990s when arugula came
  into vogue and it was suddenly seen as provincial or low-
  class. Not so. No other lettuce is as crisp or refreshing.
  While it may not deliver powerful flavor, it maintains its
  crunch even under duress. I can’t think of anything else
  that can stand up so nicely to blue cheese dressing or a hot
  hamburger patty. The fact that it keeps for a couple of
  weeks in the fridge makes it a useful staple to have on
  hand.


• Romaine, also referred to as Cos lettuce, is the classic