The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

  • Arugula, sometimes called rocket, is the most widely
    available peppery green, and it ranges from relatively
    small, mild, and tender leaves to large, robustly peppery
    behemoths. Sylvetta, a wilder, spicier cousin, is more and
    more available these days. Arugula goes best with sharp
    vinaigrettes that won’t get overwhelmed by its
    pepperiness. I buy my arugula prewashed in plastic
    clamshells so that I never have an excuse not to throw a
    quick side salad together for dinner.

  • Watercress is a perennial weedy green well loved for its
    spicy bite. Its stems are quite hearty, but its leaves wilt
    relatively quickly after being picked—you should buy
    watercress no more than a day or two before you intend to
    use it. Other cress varieties like garden cress and upland
    cress can sometimes be found in high-end supermarkets
    in dirt-filled containers to be snipped and added to salad
    mixes as desired.

  • Mizuna, also known as Japanese mustard or spider
    mustard greens, has texture similar to arugula but a much
    milder bite. When mature, it’s best used for stir-fries, but
    the small greens are excellent in salads, dressed with a
    mild vinaigrette.


Mild Greens
Best served with a mild vinaigrette.



  • Spinach is one of my favorite greens to have on hand, as
    it’s excellent either as a salad or quickly sautéed or
    steamed for a side dish. I prefer the milder, sweeter, more
    tender flat-leaf spinach (either the baby variety sold in

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