The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1
plastic clamshells  or  the adult   flat-leaf   sold    in  bunches)    to
the tougher, more fibrous curly, which is better for
cooking.


  • Tatsoi, also called spinach mustard, has a mild, cabbage-
    like pungency faintly reminiscent of bok choy. It has
    small, round, tender leaves very similar in texture to
    spinach.

  • Mâche is the French name for lamb’s lettuce. It usually
    comes in tiny florets of 4 to 5 leaves attached at the roots.
    It’s got a very mild flavor and is delicate, so it should be
    dressed lightly just prior to serving.


Bitter Greens
Work well with any flavorful dressing, either creamy or
vinaigrette-based.



  • Dandelion greens, or the very similar Italian puntarelle,
    can range from mildly spicy to more-bitter-than-Mr.-
    Burns-on-tax-day. It’s not always easy to tell, but, in
    general, paler, more tender leaves will have a milder
    flavor and larger, feathered, deep green leaves will be too
    bitter and tough to use in salads.

  • Belgian endive is watery with a mild bitterness. It’s great
    in chopped salads or served as individual leaves on a
    crudités platter alongside a bowl of creamy dip or
    dressing.

  • Curly endive, also known as frisée or chicory, comes in
    small, feathery heads with deep- to pale-green fibrous
    outer leaves surrounding sweet, tender pale yellow center
    leaves. Obsessive-compulsive types or those with willing

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