The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

processor makes this process nearly foolproof). As the oil
falls into the bowl, the rapid action of the whisk quickly
breaks it up into tiny droplets, which are kept suspended
with the help of the emulsifiers in the egg yolk.
Here’s what happens to that mayonnaise in the bowl as
you add more and more oil to it:



  • When the oil and water is at a 1:1 ratio, or one with less
    oil, there is no possibility of a stable emulsion forming.
    The fat won’t break up and get coated by the water, nor
    will the water be able to suspend the fat within it. At this
    stage, your mayonnaise looks like a thin, cloudy liquid.

  • As the oil to water ratio approaches a 3:1, your mixture
    begins to resemble a mayonnaise, albeit one that flows
    more like a vinaigrette. As more and more oil is
    incorporated into the emulsion, the mayonnaise starts to
    become opaque, because the tiny drops of oil refract light
    differently than a liquid mass of oil.

  • As the ratio passes a 5:1, the mayonnaise begins to get
    much thicker—thick enough that the peaks will hold when
    you pull the whisk out of it. It seems counterintuitive:
    mayonnaise is thick, oil is thin, so adding oil to
    mayonnaise should make it thinner, right? Wrong. We
    know that oil droplets in a sea of oil can swim around and
    float past each other quite freely and that in an emulsion,
    they are trapped in a tight matrix of droplets separated by
    water. In order to flow, that water needs to be able to
    move freely around the system. As you add more and
    more oil to the mayonnaise, the water separating each
    droplet of oil gets stretched thinner and thinner, severely

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