The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1
oven.    This    expansion   brings  lightness   and     crispness   to
fried foods.


  • Protein coagulation. Cooking in hot oil precipitates the
    rapid coagulation of proteins. Just as proteins set in a loaf
    of bread or a pancake, giving it more structure and
    rigidity, so do they set in the batter or breading coating a
    piece of fried food. It’s this protein matrix—usually
    comprised of gluten in a flour-based batter, or egg
    proteins in a basic breading—that gives rigid structure to
    fried foods, transforming the batter or coating into a firm
    solid.

  • Browning and caramelization. The Maillard reaction—
    the complex string of chemical reactions that gives flavor
    and color to well-browned foods—as well as
    caramelization—the similar reaction that occurs when
    sugars are heated—take place rapidly at normal frying
    temperatures. This is what gives fried foods their enticing
    golden brown color and delicious flavor.

  • Oil absorption. As water is forced out of food through
    evaporation, it leaves spaces behind. What moves in to
    take the place of that water? The only thing that can: oil
    from the fryer. It’s an inevitable part of frying, essential to
    the flavor of the finished food. And, despite what many
    books may tell you, frying at higher temperatures will not
    reduce the amount of oil your food absorbs (quite the
    opposite, in fact, see here).


Seem complicated? It’s not. The beautiful thing about deep-
frying is that once you’ve got the right amount of oil heated
to the right temperature, all of these things happen on their

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