70 percent of the oil absorbed by fried foods is absorbed
within the first few seconds after it comes out of the fryer.
But despite having absorbed less oil, the chicken cooked
at 275°F, which was limp and oily, tasted much greasier
than the crisp chicken cooked at 325°F. Turns out that what
we describe as “greasy” actually has nothing to do with the
total amount of grease in a food—it’s just an illusion.
Rather, it’s the combination of surface oil and a mushy,
moist breading or batter in our mouths that gives us the
sensation of greasiness or heaviness. Crisp, well-fried batter,
breading, or chicken skin may contain more fat, but it sure
doesn’t taste that way.
Lesson learned: When frying, cooking at a higher
temperature is absolutely essential if you want your food to
be crisp and to not taste greasy, but don’t fool yourself into
thinking there’s less fat in it!
BATTERS AND BREADINGS
Have you ever dropped a naked skinless chicken breast into
the deep fryer? I strongly advise against it. The moment it
enters a vat full of 400°F oil, a couple of things start
happening. First, the water content will rapidly convert to
steam, bubbling out like a geyser, and the chicken’s outer
tissues become drier and drier. At the same time, the soft
network of folded proteins in its musculature will begin to
denature and tighten, firming its flesh and squeezing out
juices. Pull it out a minute or two later, and you’ll discover
that it’s become quite stiff, with a layer of desiccated meat a
good ¼ inch thick surrounding it. This is when you’ll quite