The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1
A   double  coating of  flour   creates a   thick   crust   that    falls   off
the chicken.

Much better was to simply add a bit of extra structure to
the breading in the form of an egg mixed into the
buttermilk.
My crust was certainly thick enough now, but I ran into
another problem: rather than crisp and crunchy, it was
bordering on tough, almost rock-like in its density. Knowing
that gluten—the network of proteins formed when flour
meets water—was the most likely culprit, I sought out ways
to minimize its formation. First and foremost: cut the
protein-rich wheat flour with cornstarch, a pure starch that
adds moisture-absorbing capabilities to the breading without
adding excess protein. Replacing a quarter of the flour
worked well. Adding a couple teaspoons of baking powder
to the mix helped bring a bit of air to the mix, forming a

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