The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

of gluten formation so that the batter can sit a bit longer
before it goes bad. So does replacing the ice water with club
soda, a trick I learned from my old chef Ken Oringer, at Clio
Restaurant in Boston. But the real key is in the process:
rather than simply dumping the dry and wet ingredients into
a bowl and whisking them together, I found that by adding
the wet ingredients to the dry then immediately lifting up the
bowl and shaking it with one hand while simultaneously
rapidly stirring with a pair of chopsticks, I could get all of
the ingredients incorporated while minimizing the amount of
flour that is completely moistened by the liquid.