The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

CRUNCHY OVEN FRIES


In need of a quick fix? Crunchy oven fries don’t live up to
the simple-yet-lofty culinary standards set by a French
fry, but they’re equally tasty in their own way. Since
they’re cooked in the relatively-low-energy environment
of the oven (remember, 375°F oil is far more efficient at
transferring heat than even a 500°F oven), you need to
take a few extra steps to ensure proper crust formation.
First you’ve gotta help them thicken their skins. I tried
simply battering and baking some, but it’s a no-go. The
watery potatoes sog out their skins far too quickly.
Starting them out by boiling them in vinegar-spiked water
is a much better first step, allowing the crust to stay intact
after frying.


Potatoes    baked   from    raw (left)  end up  with    thin,   soggy
crusts. Parcooked potatoes (right) stay crisp after baking.

Then I tried dozens of variations of coating, from
thick egg-based batters to simple dustings, and in the end,
I found the best method is to toss the boiled potatoes with

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