The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

hollandaise are two: careful construction of an emulsion by
slowly incorporating butterfat into the liquid, and
temperature control.
Once you realize this, the solution to foolproofing
hollandaise becomes quite simple. Most classic recipes
require you to heat both the butter and egg yolks before
trying to combine the two. But what if you were to just heat
one of them, so that when it is combined with the other, the
final temperature ends up in the correct range? I figured that
if I heated my butter to a high-enough temperature, I should
be able to slowly incorporate it into a mixture of raw egg
yolks and lemon juice, gradually raising its temperature, so
that by the time all the butter is incorporated, the yolks are
cooked exactly how they need to be. Because the acidity of
lemon juice can minimize curdling, there’s a little bit of
leeway as far as temperature is concerned: anywhere in the
160° to 180°F range for the finished sauce will work.

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