The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1
softens  and     melts   at  a   specific    temperature
range, butter goes through many textural
changes as you heat it, slowly softening and
becoming more and more malleable until finally,
at around 95°F, all of the fats are liquefied.


  • Water makes up another 15 percent (down to 11
    percent for high-end butters, up to 30 percent
    for fresh-churned butters). In the cool environs
    of the fridge, the water and fat in a stick of
    butter commingle without any problem. But
    apply some energy to the situation by heating it
    in a skillet, and eventually the water converts to
    steam, forming small bubbles of vapor and
    causing your butter to foam. Once the foaming
    has subsided, you know that all of the water has
    made its escape and your butter has begun to
    climb above 212°F. Since water is denser than
    fat, when butter is melted in a large pot, this
    layer of water (and a few dissolved proteins) will
    sink to the bottom, where it will begin to bubble
    if heated long enough.

  • Milk proteins, mainly casein, make up the
    remaining 5 percent (or so) of the butter. These
    proteins are the milky white scum that floats to
    the top of your butter as you melt it, and it’s
    these proteins that will begin to brown and
    eventually burn and smoke as you heat butter in
    a hot skillet.


Because  of  its     water   and     protein     content,    plain
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