The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1
cooling the
eggs and
letting them
set more
slowly; this
leads to
denser,
creamier
results.

With all this data, my fluffy scrambled eggs were coming
out great. I just had to make sure to whisk in some milk
along with the eggs, to use relatively high heat, to keep the
stirring and folding minimal, and to make sure to get ’em
out of the hot pan before they were completely cooked.
Even once out of the pan, moisture will continue to
evaporate from the eggs and the proteins will continue to set
tighter and tighter. Removing the eggs from the pan when
slightly undercooked ensures that they arrive at the table
perfectly cooked.
My creamy eggs, on the other hand, were giving me more
problems. They were coming out fine when I started them
with cubes of cold butter, used low heat, and stirred
constantly to break up curds and release air and vapor, but
they were still not quite as rich and creamy as I’d like.
Salting them well before cooking (see “Salting Eggs,”

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