below) and letting them rest helped, but if there’s one thing I
learned working in French restaurants, it’s that when all else
fails, add more fat. My solution was to add extra egg yolks
to the mix, as well as to finish the dish with a touch of heavy
cream. The cream serves two functions: it adds richness and
smooths out the eggs’ texture, and when added at the end of
cooking, it also cools them down, preventing them from
setting up too hard in the skillet. And how’s this for gilding
the lily?—use crème fraîche (see here) in place of heavy
cream. The resulting eggs are the ultimate in luxury: rich,
tender, almost custard-like in texture. Eggs-ceptional!
(Sorry.)

SALTING EGGS

Here’s the scenario: You’ve just beaten a few

eggs    with    a   pinch   of  salt,   getting ready   to  scramble

them,   when    suddenly    the dog gets    stuck   in  the toilet,

your    mother-in-law   calls,  and the UPS guy rings   the

doorbell     to  deliver     your    brand-new   digital

thermometer.    Thirty  minutes later,  you get back    to

those    eggs    and     realize     they’ve     completely  changed

color.  Once    bright  yellow  and opaque, they’re now

dark    orange  and translucent.    What’s  going   on? And,

more    important,  will    it  affect  the way they    cook?