The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

own numerical designation.



  • The 103 is the most intact. It’s an entire rib section (with
    ribs 6 through 12 of the steer), along with a significant
    portion of the short ribs, the chine bone completely intact
    and a large flap of fat and meat (called “lifter meat,” not to
    be confused with the coveted spinalis dorsis) covering the
    meaty side. It’s unlikely you’ll find this cut even if you
    ask the butcher for it.

  • The 107 has been trimmed somewhat, with the short ribs
    cut short, some (but not all) of the chine bone sawed off,
    and the outer cartilage removed. This is how rib sections
    are commonly sold to retail butchers and supermarkets,
    where they can be further broken down.

  • The 109A is considered ready to roast and serve. It has
    had the chine bone nearly completely sawed off and the
    lifter meat removed. The fat cap is then put back in place.

  • The 109 Export is essentially identical to the 109A,
    except it does not have the fat cap. This is the cut you’ll
    see on your Christmas table or at that fancy-pants hotel
    buffet. The meat on this cut is only minimally protected on
    the outside.


I aged a 107, a 109A, and a 109 Export in a mini-fridge
(this one from Avanti) set at 40°F, in which I had placed a
small computer fan to allow for air circulation (I had to cut a
small notch in the sealing strip around the door so the fan’s
cord could pass through), simulating a dry-aging room on a
small scale. I made no attempt to regulate the humidity,
which bounced around from 30 and 80 percent (higher at

Free download pdf