muscle proteins into shorter fragments, which alters their
flavor in desirable ways. But this effect is completely
secondary to the far more important change that occurs
when fat is exposed to oxygen—it’s the oxidation of fat as
well as bacterial action on the surfaces of the meat that
cause the most profound flavor change, the funkiness you
get in meat that has been aged for over 30 days.
It’s true, though, that much of this funky flavor is
concentrated on the outermost portions of the meat—the
parts that largely get trimmed away—and for this reason, if
you want to get the most out of your aged meat, it’s
essential that you serve it with the bone attached (not the fat
cap, which should be completely removed and discarded).
The outer parts of the bones will hold tons of oxidized fat
and funky meat. The aromas from this meat reach your nose
as you’re eating, altering your entire experience. Lovers of
aged steak also prize the spinalis—the outer cap of meat on
a rib-eye—for its richer, more highly aged flavor.
Aging Setup
Q: What sort of setup do I need for aging steak at home?
Is it relatively simple?
It’s very simple and requires virtually no special equipment.
There are just a few things you’ll need:
- Fridge space. The best thing is to use a dedicated mini-
fridge, so that the meat smells don’t permeate other food.
It can get a little . . . powerful. The mini-fridge I kept by
my desk when testing aged meat would fill the office with
the aroma of aging meat if I peeked inside it for even a