The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

A NEW WAY TO COOK


TENDERLOIN STEAKS


Sure, the tenderloin is the most tender, buttery-smooth cut
of meat on the whole steer, but it is bland, plain and
simple.


Because of its lack of fat, it’s also extremely unforgiving
when it comes to cooking. Fat plays two roles in a steak as it
cooks: First, it’s an insulator. Energy doesn’t get transferred
as efficiently through fat as through lean meat, which means
that the more fat a steak has, the longer it takes to cook—
and the wider the window of time during which it is
perfectly cooked. A fatty rib-eye steak might have a good

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