The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

  • Until a good layer of seasoning has built up, food will
    stick to it. This goes for even the “preseasoned” skillets
    on the market now, which have a mediocre level of
    seasoning at best. With everyday use, a cast-iron skillet
    will be perfectly seasoned (I define this as nonstick
    enough to cook eggs in) within a few weeks. With less
    frequent use, you can expect the process to take a couple
    of months. It’s a long haul, but think of how proud you’ll
    be (just like housebreaking a puppy) when that first egg
    slides magically off the bottom.

  • It heats unevenly. Contrary to popular belief, iron is a
    poor conductor of heat, which means that the heat doesn’t
    travel far from its source. Trying to use a 12-inch cast-iron
    skillet on a 3-inch burner ring is an exercise in futility: the
    edges of the pan will never get hot. To heat a cast-iron pan
    effectively, you need a burner equal in size to the pan, and
    plenty of time for even heat distribution. Alternatively, a
    cast-iron pan can be preheated in a hot oven before
    transferring it to the stove. (Don’t forget to use a kitchen
    towel or pot holder!)

  • It can rust. While a good layer of seasoning will prevent
    this, carelessness (like scrubbing the pan or not allowing it
    to dry thoroughly before storing it) can lead to rust spots.

  • You can’t cook overly acidic foods in it. Acidic foods
    will pick up flavor and color from the iron, turning them
    dingy and metallic-tasting. This means that until a very
    good layer of seasoning has developed, even quick wine-
    based pan sauces are out of the question, as are acidic
    recipes like tomato sauce.

  • It’s heavy. There’s no getting around this one. The

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