The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

Modern cast iron is bumpy like that because it is not
polished the way old cast iron was and retains some texture
from the mold. I’ve compared my shiny, totally smooth
1930s Griswold pan (acquired at a flea market) to my ten-
year-old Lodge skillet (which I bought new and seasoned
myself) and found slight advantages with the old pan, but
the new one does just fine.
So the key is all in seasoning it properly. How does it
work?
Well, if you look at the surface of a cast-iron pan under a
microscope, you’ll see all kinds of tiny pores, cracks, and
irregularities. When you cook food in the pan, it can seep
into these cracks, causing it to stick. Not only that, but
proteins can actually form chemical bonds with the metal as
they come into contact with it. Ever have a piece of fish tear

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