The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

in half as you try to turn it because it seems like it’s actually
bonded with the pan? That’s because it has.
To prevent either of these things from happening, you
need to fill in the little pores, as well as create a protective
layer in the bottom of the pan to prevent proteins from
coming into contact with it. Enter fat.
When fat is heated in the presence of metal and oxygen, it
polymerizes. Or, to put it more simply, it forms a solid,
plastic-like substance that coats the pan. The more times oil
is heated in a pan, the thicker this coating gets, and the
better the nonstick properties of the pan.
Here’s how to build up the initial layer of seasoning in
your pan:




  •   Scrub   the pan by  pouring ½   cup kosher  salt    into    it  and

    rubbing it with a paper towel. This will scour out any dust
    and impurities that have collected in it. Then wash it
    thoroughly with hot, soapy water and dry thoroughly. If
    your oven has a self-cleaning cycle, one trip through with
    the pan left inside will demolish even the toughest
    cooked-on crud and give you a bare pan to start with.



  • Oil your pan by rubbing every surface—including the
    handle and the bottom—with a paper towel soaked in a
    highly unsaturated fat like corn, vegetable, or canola oil.
    Unsaturated fats are more reactive than saturated fats (like
    shortening, lard, or other animal-based fats), and thus
    polymerize better. It’s an old myth that bacon fat or lard
    makes the best seasoning agent, probably borne of the fact
    that those fats were very cheap back in cast-iron’s heyday.

  • Heat your pan in a 450°F oven for 30 minutes (it will

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