Skirt Steak
Of all the inexpensive cuts on the cow, skirt is probably the
greatest dollar-to-flavor value there is. Riddled with plenty
of buttery, beefy fat with a deep, rich flavor and a tender,
juicy texture, it’s a tough cut not to like. Indeed, I’d say that
its flavor is even better than the rib-eye and far superior to a
relatively bland tenderloin or New York strip.
That is, it’s a tough cut not to like if you’ve had it cooked
and sliced properly. All too often, you head out to a midrate
taqueria where the skirt steak (known as asfajitas—“little
belts”—in Mexico) sits around in piles on the edges of the
griddle, slowly overcooking and turning from tender, juicy,
steak-fit-for-a-king into your typical tough, leathery, livery-
tasting taco stuffing.
Equally bad is the uncle who throws it onto a too-cool
grill, forgets to rest it, and then slices it improperly, reducing
it to inedibly tough rubber bands. Do not be this uncle. Your
family may still love you, but they certainly won’t like you.
Also sold as: Fajita meat.
Where it’s cut from: The outside skirt is the diaphragm
muscle of the cow. The inside skirt is part of the flank.
Shopping: The outside skirt is the traditional cut for fajitas,
but it is generally sold only to restaurants; you’d be hard-
pressed to find it retail. It comes with a tough membrane
attached to it, which needs to be trimmed before it can be
cooked.
Inside skirt is part of the flank, and it is the more widely