NEEDS
I’m a hoarder by nature. I get pleasure out of acquiring as
vast an array of pots and pans as possible, always telling
myself that I’m going to use them regularly, that they really
aren’t a waste of money. But, in all honesty, the only real
use I get out of ninety percent of my pans is a purely
aesthetic one. They’re like a necktie for my pot rack—and I
never wear a tie.
The majority of the time, I find myself reaching for the
same eight pans. I can’t think of a single dish that can’t be
made using one of these, or a combination, and they’re all
you’ll need to cook the recipes in this book. Here they are,
the cornerstones of any well-stocked kitchen.
- A 12-Inch Tri-Ply (Laminated) Straight-Sided Lidded
Sauté Pan
A large skillet is the true workhorse of the kitchen. It’s
perfect for rapidly browning large quantities of vegetables
or meat. Pan-roasting a whole chicken? This is the pan of
choice. Need to brown a pork tenderloin or a 3-rib beef
roast? No problem. It’s also excellent for braising and for
reducing sauces. It has a tight-fitting lid and is oven-safe,
which means you can brown your short ribs, add the liquid,
cover, and braise in the oven, then reduce the sauce on the
stovetop and serve all out the same pan.
Why is tri-ply construction important? Stainless steel is
heavy and can retain a lot of heat, but it’s slow conductor.
Aluminum is lightweight (and retains less heat per unit
volume), but transfers heat really fast. Combine the two in a
single pan by sandwiching the aluminum in the center, and