The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

easy to overcook. One way to fix this problem is by
brining it (see here). Just as with turkey and chicken,
a soak in a saltwater solution can cause the meat’s
protein structure to loosen up, allowing it to retain
more moisture as it cooks, though, just as with
poultry, it’ll also dilute the flavor. Pork producers
figured this out a while ago, and many of them
started injecting their pork with a briny solution.
The vast majority of industrially raised pork in this
country is now sold in this form, known as
“enhanced” pork. To see if your pork has been
enhanced, check the label: if it is, it’ll say something
like “with up to 10% sodium solution.”
Seems convenient, right? Prebrined meat?
Unfortunately, the brine solution sits in the meat for
far too long. Rather than tasting simply juicy, most
enhanced pork borders on spongy, with an odd ham-
like texture. I much prefer to buy unenhanced
natural pork and dry-brine it myself, allowing me to
control exactly how much liquid it retains.
Oftentimes I don’t brine it at all, knowing that if I
cook them carefully and monitor the temperature,
the chops’ll still end up nice and juicy.
To dry-brine pork chops, season well on all
surfaces with kosher salt. Place on a wire rack set in
a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate, uncovered,
for at least 45 minutes and up to 3 days.


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