The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science

(Nandana) #1

occurs via two means: the breakdown of cells
through the action of enzymes naturally present in
meat# and the proliferation of bacteria. Both of
these things occur at faster rates as the temperature
increases.
Now, land-based, warm-blooded animals like
cows, chickens, and pigs are used to living in warm
environments and they have metabolisms to match.
Take their meat and refrigerate it, and enzymatic
and bacterial action slows down to a crawl. Fish, on
the other hand, are designed to operate in the low
temperatures of ocean waters. Some species of
Arctic or deepwater fish spend most of their lives in
water that is just barely above freezing. Compared
to that, the 40°F of an average refrigerator is
positively balmy. So fish-related enzymatic action
will occur just fine in your fridge or the fish
market’s display case.
That’s why it’s so hard to find great fish on a
regular basis, and why you should cook fish as soon
as possible after buying it.


Buying

Here are some tips for buying fish:



  • Look at the fish market itself. Is


everything  clean   and orderly?    Is  the fish    displayed
with care and kept on top of and under ice at all
times? If your fishmonger looks careless with his
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