they     discovered,     has     no  resident    mammals,    unless  you     count   the
scientists  themselves  or  a   pig that    was once    brought over    and kept    in  a
cage     until   it  was     barbecued.  The     monograph   that    resulted    from    this
research    ran to  four    hundred pages.  It  opened  with    a   poem    attesting   to
the charms  of  the tiny    cay:
An  island  slumbering—
Clasped in  a   shimmering  circlet
Of  waters  turquoise   and blue.
Guarding    her jewel   from    the pounding    surf
On  her coral   rim.
On  my  last    day at  One Tree,   no  snorkeling  trips   were    planned,    so  I
decided to  try to  walk    across  the island, an  exercise    that    should  have
taken   about   fifteen minutes.    Not very    far into    my  journey,    I   ran into
Graham, the station manager.    A   rangy   man with    bright  blue    eyes,   ginger-
colored hair,   and a   walrus  mustache,   Graham  looked  to  me  like    he  would
have    made    an  excellent   pirate. We  fell    into    walking and talking together,
and as  we  wandered    along,  Graham  kept    picking up  bits    of  plastic that    the
waves   had carried to  One Tree:   the cap of  a   bottle; a   scrap   of  insulation,
probably     from    a   ship’s  door;   a   stretch     of  PVC     pipe.   He  had     a   whole
collection  of  these   bits    of  flotsam,    which   he  displayed   in  a   wire    cage;   the
point   of  the exhibit,    he  told    me, was to  demonstrate to  visitors    “what   our
race    is  doing.”
Graham   offered     to  show    me  how     the     research    station     actually
functioned, and so  we  threaded    our way behind  the cabins  and the labs,
toward  the island’s    midsection. It  was breeding    season, and everywhere
we  walked, there   were    birds   strutting   around, screaming:  bridled terns,
which   are black   on  top and white   on  their   chests; lesser  crested terns,
which   are gray    with    black   and white   faces;  and black   noddies,    which   have
a   patch   of  white   on  their   heads.  I   could   see why humans  had had such    an
easy     time    killing     off     nesting     seabirds;   the     terns   seemed  completely
unafraid    and were    so  much    underfoot   it  took    an  effort  not to  step    on
them.
                    
                      tuis.
                      (Tuis.)
                      
                    
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