PÄÄBO    usually     works   late,   and     most    nights  he  has     dinner  at  the
institute,  where   the cafeteria   stays   open    until   7   PM. One evening,    though,
he  offered to  knock   off early   and show    me  around  downtown    Leipzig.    We
visited the church  where   Bach    is  buried  and ended   up  at  Auerbachs   Keller,
the  bar     to  which   Mephistopheles  brings  Faust   in  the     fifth   scene   of
Goethe’s    play.   (The    bar was supposedly  Goethe’s    favorite    hangout when
he  was a   university  student.)   I   had been    to  the zoo the day before, and I
asked   Pääbo   about   a   hypothetical    experiment. If  he  had the opportunity
to  submit  Neanderthals    to  the sorts   of  tests   I’d seen    in  Pongoland,  what
would   he  do? What    did he  think   they    were    like?   Did he  think   they’d  be  able
to  talk?   He  sat back    in  his chair   and folded  his arms    across  his chest.
“One    is  so  tempted to  speculate,” he  said.   “So I   try to  resist  it  by
refusing    questions   such    as  ‘Do I   think   they    would   have    spoken?’    Because,
honestly,   I   don’t   know,   and in  some    sense   you can speculate   with    just    as
much    justification   as  I   can.”
The many    sites   where   their   remains have    been    found   give    plenty  of
hints   about   what    Neanderthals    were    like,   at  least   to  those   inclined    to
speculate.  Neanderthals    were    extremely   tough—this  is  attested    to  by  the
thickness   of  their   bones—and   were    probably    capable of  beating modern
humans  to  a   pulp.   They    were    adept   at  making  stone   tools,  though  they
seem    to  have    spent   tens    of  thousands   of  years   making  the same    tools   over
and over    again.  At  least   on  some    occasions,  they    buried  their   dead.   Also    on
some    occasions,  they    appear  to  have    killed  and eaten   each    other.  Not just
Nandy    but     many    Neanderthal     skeletons   show    signs   of  disease     or
disfigurement.  The original    Neander Valley  Neanderthal seems   to  have
suffered    from    two serious injuries,   one to  his head    and the other   to  his left
arm.     The     La  Chapelle    Neanderthal     endured,    in  addition    to  arthritis,  a
broken  rib and kneecap.    These   injuries    may reflect the rigors  of  hunting
with    the Neanderthals’   limited repertoire  of  weapons;    the Neanderthals
never   seem    to  have    developed   projectiles,    so  they    would   have    to  have
gotten  more    or  less    on  top of  their   prey    in  order   to  kill    them.   Like    Nandy,
both    the original    and the La  Chapelle    Neanderthal recovered   from    their
                    
                      tuis.
                      (Tuis.)
                      
                    
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