endless,    often   abstruse    disputes.   (Some   archaeologists  believe that    the
pendants    were    fashioned   by  Neanderthals    who,    after   coming  into    contact
with     modern  humans,     tried   to  imitate     them.   Others  argue   that    the
pendants    were    fashioned   by  modern  humans  who occupied    the site    after
the  Neanderthals.)  This    absence     has     led     some    to  propose     that
Neanderthals    were    not capable of  art or—what amounts to  much    the same
thing—not   interested  in  it. We  may see the hand    ax  as  “beautiful”;    they
saw it  as  useful. Genomically speaking,   they    lacked  what    might   be  called
the aesthetic   mutation.
On  my  last    day in  the Dordogne,   I   went    to  visit   a   nearby  archaeological
site—a  human   site—called the Grotte  des Combarelles.    The Grotte  is  a   very
narrow  cave    that    zigzags for nearly  a   thousand    feet    through a   limestone
cliff.  Since   its rediscovery,    in  the late    nineteenth  century,    the cave    has
been    enlarged    and strung  with    electric    lights, which   have    made    it  possible
to  walk    through it  safely, if  not altogether  comfortably.    When    humans
first   entered the Grotte, twelve  or  thirteen    thousand    years   ago,    it  was a
different   matter. Then    the ceiling was so  low that    the only    way to  move
through the cave    would   have    been    to  crawl,  and the only    way to  see in  the
absolute    blackness   would   have    been    to  carry   fire.   Something—perhaps
creativity, perhaps spirituality,   perhaps “madness”—drove people  along
nonetheless.    Deep    inside  the Grotte, the walls   are covered with    hundreds
of  engravings. All the images  are of  animals,    many    of  them    now extinct:
mammoths,   aurochs,    woolly  rhinos. The most    detailed    of  them    possess an
uncanny  vitality:   a   wild    horse   seems   to  lift    its     head,   a   reindeer    leans
forward,    apparently  to  drink.
It  is  often   speculated  that    the humans  who sketched    on  the walls   of
the Grotte  des Combarelles thought their   images  had magical powers, and
in  a   way they    were    right.  The Neanderthals    lived   in  Europe  for more    than
a    hundred     thousand    years   and     during  that    period  they    had     no  more
impact  on  their   surroundings    than    any other   large   vertebrate. There   is
every   reason  to  believe that    if  humans  had not arrived on  the scene,  the
Neanderthals    would   be  there   still,  along   with    the wild    horses  and the
                    
                      tuis.
                      (Tuis.)
                      
                    
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