1 Deira (p50)
Deira feels like a cross between Cairo and
Karachi. Dusty, crowded and chaotic, it’s
a world away from the slick and sanitised
city piercing the clouds at the other end
of town. At the Dhow Wharfage, colourful
wooden boats arrive from Iran with boxes
of cuddly toys, televisions and batteries to
be sold at the nearby souqs. At these atmos-
pheric ancestors to today’s malls, you can sipsugary tea and haggle for bargains with trad-
ers whose families have tended the same
shop for generations.2 Bur Dubai (p63)
Bustling Bur Dubai is home to the restored
historical quarters of Bastakia and Shinda-
gha, wonderful for late afternoon and evening
strolls. Bur Dubai Souq is just as lively as
the Deira souqs with the aesthetic plus of6666
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Neighbourhoods
at a Glance