extending to the inner bark; the scion is prepared by a longitudinal
sloping cut of the same length as that in the stem, into which it
is inserted, and the two are bound together and treated like other
grafts.
Approach Grafting is the most favourable method of obtaining choice
varieties of the vine, or of growing weak sorts on roots of a stronger
growth. The scion is generally grown in a pot. A portion of the bark
is cut from both scion and stock while the vine is in active growth,
and the two wounded parts brought into contact, so that they fit
exactly. They are then tied together, and moss (kept constantly wet)
is bound round the parts. The union may be completed by the following
spring, but it is safer to leave the cutting down of the stock to the
point of union and the separation of the scion from the potted plant
until the second spring.
Grafting Wax (Cobbetts), etc.--Pitch and resin four parts each,
beeswax two parts, tallow one part. Melt and mix the ingredients, and
use when just warm. It may be rolled into balls and stored in a dry
place.
Clay bands are frequently employed for excluding the air from wounds
caused in the process of grafting. These are liable to crack, unless
the clay is well kneaded and mixed with wood ashes or dry horse
droppings.
Grapes.--The cultivation of Grapes in the open in our cloudy and
changeable climate cannot be looked forward to with any certainty of
success. Two successive favourable seasons are indispensable--one to
ripen the wood, and the next to ripen the fruit. Nevertheless, the
highly ornamental foliage of the vine entitles it to a place on our
walls, and every facility should be afforded for the production of a
chance crop of fruit. The soil most suited to the growth of the vine
is a medium loam, with which is incorporated a quantity of crushed
chalk and half-inch bones. It should be given a south aspect, and be
liberally supplied with water in dry seasons. April is the best time
to plant it, spreading the roots out equally about 9 in. below the
surface of the soil, and mulching with 3 or 4 in. of manure. Should
mildew set in, syringe the vine with a mixture of soapsuds and
sulphur. To secure a continuance of fruit, cut out some of the old
rods each year as soon as the leaves fall, and train young shoots in
their places. Last year's shoots produce other shoots the ensuing
summer, and these are the fruit-bearers. One bunch of grapes is enough
for a spur to carry. Professional gardeners cast off the weight of the
bunches, and allow 1 ft. of rod to each pound of fruit. Tie or nail
the bunches to the trellis or wall, and remove all branches or leaves
that intercept light and air.
The vine may be increased by layers at the end of September. Cut a
notch at a bud, and bury it 4 or 5 in. deep, leaving two or three eyes
above ground. It may also be propagated by cuttings, about 1 ft. in
length, of the last year's growth, with 1 in. of old wood attached,
taken the latter end of February. Plant these deep in the ground,